Lively Limbang beckons
THE border town of Limbang is sandwiched between the two halves of Brunei — Brunei Muara, Tutong and Kuala Belait to the west and Temburong District to the east.Replete with heritage sites plus a lively local cultural scene and a long history, and situated on the bank of the 247m long Limbang River, it is just the place for lovers of history, culture, adventure and Nature, not forgetting the hundreds of visitors pouring in from the neighbouring Sultanate for shopping, recreation or transit every weekend.
“You name it, Limbang has it — heritage sites, interesting cultures and traditions of the various ethnic groups, natural beauty, water and land sports and a long history inter-wined with that of the old Brunei Sultanate,” said Chua Eng Hin, owner of Borneo Touch Ecotour Sdn Bhd, an in-bound company.
Limbang has a year-round calendar of activities that will appeal to tourists. From buffalo to speedboat racing, village cuisine, the throbs of Gambus band performance on a stilted stage, colourful festivities such as Pesta Babulang of the Bisaya community and Pesta Limbang water sports and cultural carnivals to the lure of the rivers and mountains, the attractions are unmistakable .
The local market or ‘Tamu’ offering a wide range of local fruits, vegetables, fish and even indigenous costumes, is a window to the Division’s suburbs and hinterland.
Limbang was controversially annexed by Charles Anthony Johnson Brooke, the second Rajah, from Brunei in 1890, and is now one of the 11 administrative Divisions in Sarawak.
With a population of about 90,000, it is a melting pot of many cultures, including Brunei Malay, Kedayan, Chinese, Iban and Orang Ulu ethnic groups such as Lun Bawang, Bisaya, Kelabit, Tabun and Penan.
It is also a gateway to the World Natural Heritage site of Mulu National Park, linked on land by what tourism players call the ‘Headhunters Trail’ between Ulu Limbang and Ulu Melinau in Mulu.
Nature beckons
The amazing Buda Caves system in Ulu Limbang is relatively unknown to the outside world.
Some of the caves are burial grounds of the Tabun tribe of yesteryear. It is believed the cave system is linked to the underground passageways and rivers of the Mulu Caves.
Kampung Meritam, a Malay village about 37km on the outskirt from Limbang town, is the only place in Sarawak where mud volcanoes are within reach by road.
While on a visit to Limbang and Kampung Meritam after the Miri International Jazz Festival this year, a foreign media group took to chewing the texture of the sago food starch made from the pith of sago palm (metroxylon species), a staple of the indigenous tribes.
Volcanic mud pots stretches over 10 acres here. The media group, accompanied by locals bringing their children along for a Sunday afternoon outing, were firing away with their cameras the minute they arrived at the village.
Kampung Seberang Kedai
Opposite Limbang town, the rows of stilted wooden houses, and even sepak takraw court and the buzzing river boats are another sight to behold. It’s a settlement that has existed for one and half century.
Better known as Kampung Seberang Kedai, this century-old Malay water village, separated from the town by the Limbang River, has over 120 houses inter-linked by wooden walkways.
Set among picturesque surroundings with boats plying to and fro across the river, it is also a statement of Limbang’s rich heritage, facing the Limbang Golden Jubilee waterfront and the town itself.
History and war
One can walk down memory lane at the Golden Hill Lake Park where historical artefacts, including gold jewellery, were found in 1912.
The official residence of Sir Alexander Waddell, the last British Governor of Sarawak (1960-1963) is also found here.
Sir Alexander and his wife were taken hostage from the house on December 8, 1962 by local rebels who joined the North Kalimantan National Army, supported by then President Surkarno of Indonesia, to resist the British and Malayan governments for calling on the citizens of Sarawak, Sabah, Brunei and Singapore to form the federation of Malaysia.
Many feel it is fitting to declare this house a heritage where all the records can be kept to remind visitors and locals of the British soldiers of L Company 42 Commando Royal Marines and local policemen who died defending Limbang town.
The soldiers lay down their lives to prevent Limbang falling into the hands of the rebels who also failed to capture Brunei on December 8, 1962.
A monument on the Limbang River bank, built in 1963, lists the names of the four Royal Malaysian Police constables who died during the rebellion and five British Royal Marines who lost their lives rescuing the British Resident and other hostages on December 12, 1962. This is the spot where the first ‘Z’ craft landed for the rescue operation.
Surviving Royal Marines and the rebel leader in Limbang met for the first time in reconciliation 40 years later, and a documentary titled ‘Return to Limbang’ was featured on the History Channel of a local satellite TV station.
The liberation of Limbang is a momentous chapter in the history of the state, and its 50th anniversary will be observed in 2012.
A short distance away stands the Limbang Regional Museum, a former fort built in 1897 by Charles Brooke. It’s a legacy of the reign of the Rajahs during which forts were built throughout Sarawak to administer the state and quell uprisings.
Artefacts here include models of longhouses of the various ethnic groups in Limbang, traditional costumes, musical instruments, handicrafts and the replica of the water buffalo the locals call Kerbau.
The water buffalo is Bisaya icon. In the earlier days, it was used for farming, food, transport … and racing during their grand annual Babulang Festival held only in Limbang. Ownership of the water buffalo reflected social status.
The Pesta Babulang Festival is now included in the State and National tourism calendars and fixed on the first weekend of June each year.
Other heritage venues
One can take a river ride to see the boat-making cottage industry at Kampung Limpoang and Kampung Pabahanan, both traditional fishing villages where the occupation includes king prawn (udang galah) fishing.
A visit to Kampung Patiambun where the villagers’ livelihood includes catching crabs, and Kampungg Limpaki with hundreds of coconut trees, is a must for those who love village setting.
Food in Limbang
Bario rice, long regarded as one of the finest grains in the world, is grown mainly by the Lun Bawangs and the Kelabit tribes in Ba Kelalan and Bario Highlands.
There are three varieties — Adan Halus, Adan Sederhana and Padi Tuan.
Homegrown and harvested by hands using traditional methods, its fame has travelled far and wide, even making its way to dining tables in the United Kingdom and Hong Kong.
The wild jungle ferns — miding or bidin — cooked with sambal belacan (shrimp paste), soto, buffalo tail or meat soup, and other cuisines beckon for those with discerning taste buds.
Limbang is also famous for mangrove clams (lokan in Malay) that can pan-fried and topped with barbeque sauce and is also popular with passing Bruneians who would buy a few stacks the side of Pandaruan Road at Kampung Sayung.
Tahai smoked fish, food cooked with sambal belacan (prawn paste), is another local delicacy not be missed.
During fruit seasons, Limbang will be awash with durians, langsat, kembayau (sometimes called dabai) and other local fruits but the best normally find the way to Brunei where they are quickly snapped up.
Some of these fruits are said to be already booked even before falling to the ground.
The lively border bazaar at Tedungan, next door to Kuala Lurah, is buzzing with activities and selling an array of goods as thousands pass through it every weekend.
August 22, 2010, Sunday
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